Departure day, and The Goose and I were pretty excited about the route home.
We didn't get to do and see all the stuff we had hoped to do whilst on the reserve, but this certainly didn't dampen our spirits. We had already experienced so much, both positive and negative (reality check perhaps?), enjoyed some quality time with friends, and been drenched in the beauty of our surroundings.
Where there is death, so there is life, and today proved this. We had been eagerly awaiting the birth of some piglets from a heavily pregnant sow, and were becoming disillusioned at the prospect of it happening whilst we were present. Call it what you will, but it seemed to tie in rather nicely after yesterdays events, and nature gave the sow the much needed nudge to start popping the little porkers out.
The first piglet came in to the world around 10h00, much to the delight of The Goose. Nature, quad bikes, animals and now this. Who'd have thought that her already massive smile could get any bigger!
What an awesome way to start the day, so we spent a little time with the little guy (girl?) before packing up and preparing to head off.
This was set to be a 'Day of Life'.
After saying our goodbyes, to just about every animal on the reserve, we hit the road with great excitement. Firstly, we were going to see a lot of the landscape that we had missed on our way up to the reserve, and secondly, we were going to venture along a route that not many bikers, or people in general, get to experience. Off the beaten track.
Heading out of Clanwilliam and on to the N7 was already turning out to be a delight. We crossed the Olifants Rivier (Elephants River) and were immediately confronted by beauty. The Clanwilliam Dam is quite a site, even though mankind has clearly added his 2-cents worth and altered the flow. Road-works appear right along the N7, all the way to Citrusdal, but this route follows along the scattered flow of the river, upon which lush vegetation grows in abundance. It's fresh and invigorating.
We turned off the N7 in to Citrusdal and made a quick pit-stop for a little munch before ascending the R303 in to the Cederberg Mountains. This is where the day just blossomed.
The road begins with a slow, winding ascent, providing a stunning broad view of the town, before twisting left on to a stretch of gravel road. It is here that the magic begins. Views that leave you breathless, with the valley stretching out from way below you, down and over to the mountains that surround the farm lands like lions enjoying a nap in the hot African sun, their large paws spread out in front of them as they soak up the sun.
We reached the top of the Middelberg Pass, a little relieved to have made it without falling over or slipping out. The road levelled before descending steeply in to yet another magnificent stretch of winding gravel that snaked its way down in to the "Heart of the Citrus Valley" (according to a sign post). From here you ride along a flat stretch of dirt, past a number of small farmsteads peppered with vegetation of all sorts, cuddled by the foot of the mountain side, whilst webs of meandering streams and small rivers flow gently, glimmering in the sunlight. Just beautiful.
With the sun sneakily setting in the distance, we put foot to get through the flatter farmland sections of the region, stopping very briefly in 'Op-Die-Berg' - a strange little farm town quite literally situated on top of the mountain. This quirky, awkward place felt quite uncomfortable, and after purchasing some water, we very quickly mounted Big Red and set off again.
At the opposite end of this mountain range, nestling along the foot of the Koue Bokkeveld Mountains, is the beautifully curvaceous Gydopas. This pass is just perfect for the bike, letting you lean low in to each turn and then rise again just long enough before leaning in to the next bend, all the while maintaining a regular speed.
I must have sounded like a little girl, squealing away with excitement all the way down!
We cruised in to Prince Alfred's Hamlet, still reeling with delight, and continued straight through in to Ceres and over the Michells Pass; yet another fine example of how a tarred mountain road should be. With the darkness very quickly shoving the daylight out the way, we decided against travelling over Bains Kloof Pass and back via Wellington. It wasn't in the best of conditions last time I rode it, and we were beginning to feel quite tired. So for reasons of safety, we decided to head on to Worcester for a fresh tank of juice, a coffee, and an unexpected chat to a fellow adventure biker.
From here it was homeward bound, and one last mountain pass.
With nightfall came the icy winter chill, and although Big Red seemed to relish in this colder air, The Goose and I were slowly beginning to feel worn down.
I am firmly against SANRAL's new e-Tolling System, and tolling in general. I support BAT (Bikers Against Tolling) and all the hard work they have put in to fighting this money-grabbing system. The Goose and myself attend the protest rides and follow the news on this topic very closely. This said, I briefly considered going through the tunnel, just for the little bit of warmth and the shorter distance.
There. I said it. Eish.
But no, we stood firm and continued over the mountain. I know I would've felt awful once we'd warmed up.
Close call, but the thought was justifiable under the circumstances. It was surprisingly warm(ish) on Du Toits Kloof, and the view of Paarl was pretty cool too. We arrived back in to the Southern Suburbs around 20h00, and without a second thought chose to head straight to our local pub for a celebratory pint and a hot meal. This was well deserved, and totally enjoyable.
Home, sweet home.
A realisation suddenly occurred to me when we were enjoying the view on top of Gydopas: for as long as I can remember, I have always dreamed of travelling Africa on a motorcycle, and just out of the blue it dawned on me that I am already living out that dream, and it's thanks to the support of my family, friends, Kingtek Motorcycles, and you, the reader.
I'm also extremely grateful to The Goose for not only riding with me, putting up with my incessant motorcycle ramblings, and being labelled 'The Goose' (which her mates are even calling her now!), but especially for trusting me. She places her life in my hands every time we go out riding, believing that I will be responsible, cautious and behaved. I am privileged, honoured, and quite frankly, blessed.
What a gal!
Well, that's it for the Zandkraal Private Nature Reserve adventure. It's been a fantastic experience, and I am so grateful to all you readers for taking time out of your day to read the digressions of The Nomadic Ginger. If you've enjoyed the blog please share it with your friends.
If you have any route suggestions, questions, requests or simply want to chat, please feel free to email me at nixsah@gmail.com, or connect with me on the Facebook page - www.facebook.com/thenomadicginger.
(Pics: D. Harris & J. Parsothum)
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